Installation Instructions

Cabinet installation does not require previous cabinet installation experience. A basic knowledge of common hand tools is required, but extensive knowledge of carpentry is not required.

Required Tools
  • Level (two levels, one long and one short, make installation easier)

  • Drill (1/4 inch bit required to finish pre-drilled holes or drill new holes as needed)

  • Phillips Head Screwdriver (2)

  • Clamps (with rubber pads to prevent scratching the cabinetry)

  • Dry erase markers (for marking anything on the material if necessary)

  • Saw (either circular saw or table saw – to trim fillers and toe kick pieces)

  • Carpenter’s Square

  • Tape Measure

Before you begin, familiarize yourself with your cabinet’s layout. It is a good idea to lay out your entire outdoor kitchen before you even begin to level or fasten anything. All of your project’s hardware will be included in a sealed bag. The hardware has been carefully counted for your projects’s layout. Installation will be much easier with two people, although it is quite possible for one person to install the cabinetry alone.

If you have questions, please call us at (813) 241-9701.

Leveling the Cabinets

Leveling the cabinets is the most important part of installation! If you do not level the cabinets properly the doors will not align.

Level the cabinets by beginning at the highest point of the sloping surface. Shorten the legs at the highest point of the slope. Establish a level line at the countertop height. Level the cabinets front-to-back and left-to-right.

Plumb the cabinets vertically using a level. Level the cabinets front-to-back and left-to-right using a level. Check the inside using a carpenter’s square to make sure the cabinet is square. Make adjustments using the leveling legs.

Anchoring to Walls

Once leveled, fasten cabinets to walls using common hardware (not provided). For concrete block or stucco walls, stainless steel Tapcon® fasteners are recommended. Two fasteners per cabinet are recommended for base cabinets, four fasteners are recommended for wall cabinets.

Fastening to Each Other

All cabinets and fillers have partially pre-drilled “universal fit” holes that are perfectly aligned for a precision fit. Finish drilling the holes of two adjoining cabinets using a ¼” drill bit and then fasten the cabinets together using the provided hardware.

  • Use clamps to hold the cabinets in place when drilling and attaching hardware

  • If the pre-drilled holes don’t line up, that is a red flag that your cabinets aren’t level

  • For some parts, pre-drilled holes do not exist. You will have to drill your own holes

Countertops

For a do-it-yourself project, a tile countertop is recommended. Professional countertop fabrication is recommended for granite, concrete, quartz (Silestone® or Zodiaq®), or solid-surface acrylic (Corian®) countertops. Cabinets feature special countertop installation aids.

Cutting through Cabinets

Holes can be easily cut in cabinet backs, sides, and bottoms for plumbing, gas lines, or electrical work using ordinary hand tools.

  • Cabinet corners and joints should not be cut as that will alter the structural integrity and strength of the cabinet.

  • Morse Hole saws are not recommended. The polymer shavings (or saw dust) tend to melt inside these bits. A jig saw or paddle bit is recommended.

Fillers

Depending on your design, you might have fillers. And depending on your actual situation in the field, the fillers may require trimming.

  • Fillers are secured to the neighboring cabinet by attaching the return piece using the supplied stainless steel bolts. Fillers will have the same pre-drilled pattern on the return piece that cabinets have.

  • Fillers should be mounted so the face of the filler is flush with the neighboring cabinet’s door face.

  • Fillers can be trimmed with a table saw (or circular saw) if necessary. You can cut the filler with an ordinary woodworking saw.

Finished Back Panels

Within your supplied hardware bag, look for the hardware labeled “Finished Back Hardware”. The finished back hardware consists of:

  • Nylon Pins – The pins go into pre drilled holes at the top of the panels and fit into the cabinet backs. This allows you to “hang” the panel temporarily while you fasten the panel

  • Screws – It is very important that you use the supplied screws that are the proper depth for securing the panel.

To install the panel:

  • Reference your design to help you find the correct panel location

  • Put the pins in the holes at the top of the cabinets/panel and hang the panel temporarily

  • Use clamps to hold the panel in place

  • Look for the pre-drilled holes on the inside of the cabinet. Use the supplied screws to secure the panel in these holes.

  • If you need to add additional screws, be sure to use a drill stop

Toe Kick Panel

Once your cabinets are installed, optional toe kick panels can be added. For easiest cleaning and maintenance, you may consider omitting toe kick panels, allowing complete access underneath your outdoor kitchen for vacuuming or hose-washing. Toe kick panels can always be ordered and installed after the project is completed if you want to decide later if toe kick panels should be used.

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Hours

Monday8:30AM - 5:00PM
Tuesday8:30AM - 5:00PM
Wednesday8:30AM - 5:00PM
Thursday8:30AM - 5:00PM
Friday8:30AM - 5:00PM
SaturdayCLOSED
SundayCLOSED

Werever Outdoor Cabinets

6120 Pelican Creek Circle
Riverview, FL 33578

info@outdoor-kitchens.com
http://www.werever.com
P. (813) 241-9701
F. (813) 241-9705